Tobak's Great Wine for Techies
Thanks to everyone for the great feedback from the first column. This month we’re going to discuss Italian reds, everything you need to know about aging wines, and our monthly wine picks will focus on US whites.
Understanding Italian Reds
Some of the most exciting, innovative and versatile red wines in the world come from Italy, so understanding Italian wines is absolutely worth the effort. However, the varietals are, in many cases, unique, so if you think of the red wine universe as Cabernet with some Merlot thrown in for variety, you may find this a little challenging.
Italy’s pretty fragmented so we’re just going to discuss what I think are the more common and interesting varietals and regions, with the major focus on reds. Wines produced in the Chianti and Chianti Classico regions principally use the Sangiovese grape, the most widely planted in Italy and an incredibly versatile grape that pairs well with a broad variety of foods. In these and other regions of Tuscany a relatively new style of wine – known as Super Tuscans – has evolved where Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot are blended, typically in pairs, to create some of the greatest wines in the world.
Brunello di Montalcino wines, or Brunello for short, are also made entirely of the Sangiovese grape. Barolo, another famous region, uses only Nebbiolo grapes, as do the Barbaresco and Gattinara regions. Barbera is an oddity in that the name of the region is the same as the name of the grape used in making the wine. Go figure. Another widely planted grape is Dolcetto, and the Valpolicella region also produces some good wines. The most common and/or interesting white grapes planted in Italy are Pinot Grigio, Moscato and Malvasia.
As a side note, California’s great contribution to the wine world is Zinfandel, although it is believed to be related to the Primitivo grape of southern Italy.
Here are some of the larger, better known, leading producers of Italian reds that you’re likely to run into around town, although there are literally hundreds of smaller producers:
- Altare, Piedmont. Barolo, Nebbiolo (Langhe), Barbera (Langhe).
- Antinori, Tuscany. Super-Tuscans (Tignanello, Solaia, Guado al Tasso), Chianti, Brunello; a favorite producer of mine.
- Aldo Conterno, Piedmont. Barolo, Barbera.
- Banfi, Tuscany. Brunello, super-Tuscan (Excelsus).
- Frescobaldi, Tuscany. Brunello, super-Tuscan (Luce - with Mondavi, Lamaione), Chianti.
- Gaja, Piedmont. Barbaresco, Barolo. Very expensive, perhaps prohibitively so.
- Isole E Olena, Tuscany. Super-Tuscan (Cepparello), Chianti, Cabernet, Syrah (L’Eremo); underrated, well priced.
- Monsanto, Tuscany. Chianti Classico Riserva.
- Ornellaia, Tuscany. Super-Tuscans (Ornellaia, Masseto).
- Ruffino, Tuscany. Chianti Classico Riserva Ducale Oro, super-Tuscans (Il Pareto, Cabreo Il Borgo, Nero del Tondo).
- Sandrone, Piedmont. Barolo, Dolcetto.
- Scavino, Piedmont. Barolo, Barbera.
The Ins and Outs of Aging Wines
As you know, wine is produced from grapes as a result of fermentation – a chemical process that converts the sugar in grapes to alcohol, among other things. There are also a number of additional techniques a winemaker may use in making wine, such as aging the wine in oak barrels to impart distinct flavors to the wine. Why am I telling you all this? Because, chemical processes change the character of wine and, here’s the key point: those processes do not stop when the wine’s sealed in the bottle. Although the glass is inert, everything else in the bottle is active. I’m sure you know the old adage about wine turning to vinegar, although that only happens on broad exposure to air over a period of time.
The bottom line is that wine changes character over time, even in the bottle. And the nature of that change is a result of many factors and differs for every wine. Tannins that make wines rough around the edges in their youth allow them to age gracefully. Some wines that are very fruity in their youth will develop complexity and balance over time. Still others will lose their distinct character and become flat if aged too long.
The Tobak golden rule of aging wine: The only crime greater than drinking a great wine before its time is drinking it after its time. If you understand and remember this, you’ll do okay. So age wine a reasonable amount of time and do it properly, but don’t overdo it. Here are some guidelines for storage and aging:
- Store wine in a cool, dark place and keep it still. If temperatures fluctuate a bit, don’t panic. That’s not necessarily a problem, since fluctuations in ambient air temperature take time to propagate through liquid.
- Lay wine bottles on their side. If the temperature is not likely to be cool or constant, keep the bottles in Styrofoam or at least in the cardboard boxes they come in. That will help insulate the wine.
- If you don’t have a cellar, storage on the floor of an interior closet, under a staircase, or under the house are pretty good alternatives. Anything that will help keep the wine cool, still and away from light and temperature gradients will do fine.
- If wine is stored at a warmer temperature than the mid-50 degree range, it will age more quickly, so take that into account when determining if a wine has aged long enough.
- In general, new world wines are made to drink young these days. Old world wines are getting there, more and more every year.
As for aging specific varietals, you can use the guidelines below as a broad rule of thumb. Resources in this column and any good wine book will provide more specific – and accurate – guidance, I’m sure. These are average aging times – from the year on the bottle – for varietals to be at their best, but due to regional variations, I lean towards drinking them younger so you don’t violate the golden rule. In general, old world wines mature later than new world wines of the same varietal. Just remember, every wine is different. Some Rhone reds, Bordeaux, Cabernets and German Rieslings can live for decades:
American Cabernet Sauvignon: 4 to 6 years Merlot: 3 to 4 years Pinot Noir: 2 to 4 years (drink Oregon Pinots on the young side) Syrah and Petite Sirah: 6 to 8 years Zinfandel: 3 to 5 years Sangiovese: 2 to 4 years Chardonnay: 2 to 4 years Riesling: 2 to 5 years Other whites: 1 to 3 years Rosé: 1 to 2 years
French Bordeaux Red: 8 to 10 years Bordeaux White: 2 to 4 years Burgundy Red: 6 to 8 years Burgundy White: 3 to 5 years Rhone Red: 6 to 8 years Rhone White: 1 to 3 years
Italian Chianti: 3 to 6 years Barolo: 4 to 8 years Brunello: 5 to 10 years Barbera: 3 to 6 years
Well that covers the basics of aging wine. In subsequent issues we’ll look at other important issues including: how to and how long to let wine breath or come into contact with air before drinking, temperature to enjoy wine at and choosing the best type of drinking glass. Cheers!
Tobak’s Monthly Picks
Wines (all US whites, this time)
Kistler Chardonnay. Steven Kistler arguably makes the best Chardonnays in America. He trained under Paul Draper of Ridge. There are numerous vineyard designations, with the best being: Kistler vineyard, Cuvee Cathleen, Dutton, Durrell, McCrea, Vine Hill and Hyde. All are excellent, distinctive and have great aging potential. I would age them for 2-3 years. If you can get on their mailing list, you can get the Chard’s in the $60s range. Otherwise, you’ll pay $80 to $120 retail. If you see it on a restaurant wine list, you’ve got to go for it once.
Matanzas Creek Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc. From the Sonoma Valley. Excellent Chard at around $20 and the best Sauvignon Blanc in the US at $17.
Rochioli Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc. From the Russian River Valley in Sonoma County. Excellent Chard in the $30s and Sauvignon Blanc in the $20s, if you can find it. There are also vineyard designated Chard’s that are expensive and hard to find.
Merryvale Chardonnays. From Napa Valley. Silhouette and Dutton Ranch are great in the $30 to $40 range, Starmont is quite good for a lot less.
Archery Summit Vireton. A great Pinot Grigio with some Chard blended in. Excellent with white-sauced pasta. Typically costs around $20 but I’ve seen it in the teens at The Wine Club. Etude also makes a great Pinot Gris for $20.
Calera Viognier. The best Viognier in America, but priced like it, too … at $33, recently up from $30. Don’t try to find it for less, it can’t be done. I’ve tried.
Lazy Creek Gewurztraminer. From Philo in the Anderson Valley. Josh Chandler makes the best Gewuzt in the US and he’s a great guy, too. Just switched to dry farming with the most recent vintage, so yields are down and prices are up. The best with spicy Asian food … $s in the upper teens.
Bonny Doon Rieslings. From Bonny Doon (where else?). Randal Grahm makes a host of innovative, low-cost whites and I love most of them (and the prices!). Try The Heart Riesling, Critique of Riesling from WA state, but don’t miss the Pinot Grigio and Malvasia Bianca. All priced in the low-to-mid teens. There are others, but skip the Big House white and Pacific Rim Riesling.
Winery
Ferrari Carano Winery, Healdsburg, Sonoma County. Where do I begin with these folks? You have to visit the winery … the gardens are incredible so bring your camera. Another reason to visit the winery is to taste and get your hands on some of their rare, vineyard-designated wines, mostly brand-named TreMonte and only available at the winery. I especially liked the Syrah and Tre Terre Chard. As for what’s available broadly, they make an excellent chardonnay, chardonnay reserve, merlot, Tresor – a reserve meritage blend, Fume Blanc Reserve (same as Sauvignon Blanc) and my favorite, a super-Tuscan-style red named Siena – a blend of Sangiovese, Cabernet and Merlot. This is one of the most innovative wineries in California. Do not go to Sonoma without seeing these folks. www.ferrari-carano.com
Merchant
The Wine Club. Great wines at consistently low prices. In addition to US, great selection of French and Italian wines. It’s the best brick-and-mortar wine-shopping in the San Jose area, but limited on-line shopping. Also has wine tasting on an honor basis with regional theme tasting on some weekends. Also the best prices on Reidel stemware which I highly recommend. www.thewineclub.com
Resources
The World Atlas of Wine, Hugh Johnson, Simon & Schuster (I have the fourth edition, printed in 1994, but there may be a new one out by now).
This book’s only for the serious-minded folks who really want to understand this stuff. It’s a little big and scary, but the introduction is extraordinary, providing great background and history explaining the basics and why the wine world is the way it is. The rest of the book, which discusses each wine-growing region of the world individually, can be tackled one region at a time. My advice is to take it slow. Read, travel, taste, taste some more … hell, taste a lot!
Santa Cruz Mountains Winegrowers’ Association. Great, local winegrowers. Check out their passport club events …there’s nothing like visiting these small wineries once a quarter and getting special treatment. My favorites that you can only visit on Passport days are Cinnabar, Ahlgren and Page Mill Vineyards. www.scmwa.com
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